In this short video Greg explains how he fuels himself, sometimes for 15 10K vertical days in a row…again…MASSIVE! As he explains, he stops every hour to fuel his engine. Greg breaks a big 10K vert day into bite size chunks…one hour at a time. He is breaking his goal of skiing 2 MILLION VERTICAL feet down and taking it one day at a time, one step at a time, one moment at a time. There is only one moment, and it is now…and now! May you enjoy your moment!

Go Greg, Go!

Calories from Greg Hill 2 Mil on Vimeo.

Help support StephenKoch.com by fueling yourself on your next adventure with GU CHOMPS from Backcountry.com!

What is the better descent tool? Mountain tool in general? Read on...

Steve Romeo, skier and blogger of Tetonat.com, posed  a question about skis vs. snowboard – which is a better mountain descent tool here.   There are many excellent comments, so check out the link above for those!

Following are my responses from that discussion.

Randosteve:  I think it might be a little easier for snowboarders than skiers to descend the Chevy Couloir with their boards on their feet…since the boards are probably much shorter than the skis most skiers are on. The shortest skies I have right now (not including my rando race skis) are 175cm. i wonder what size board you ride on when on the gt???

Stephen Koch:  The size snowboard I usually ride on steeper, more technical terrain like on the Grand Teton has generally been between 155cm to 165cm. I have on occasion ridden even smaller boards, especially where weight is a major factor (high altitude). The small boards don’t hold an edge or float in powder as well as longer boards. That being said, they sure do come around quickly and one can squeak through some very narrow terrain!

Me snowboarding on the north face of Mount Everest. Photo - Copyright Jimmy Chin

I have a pair of 95cm Igneous skis (145/135/140 width) with adjustable Dynafit bindings that you are welcome to use.

I agree with you. A snowboard is the better tool for descending mountains (steep, snowy, icy, rocky) for the following reasons:

1. Snowboards are generally shorter than skis – less so nowadays with the continual flattening and shortening of the ski. Snowboards for an expert adult male rider are generally 155cm-165cm (the 195 cm Igneous Powder Gun is the exception!) and skis for an expert adult male skier are generally 170cm to 185cm. A competent rider (snowboard) can descend narrower terrain than a skier (skis) of equal ability.
2. Riders can completely face the mountain on their toe-side edge, which allows for increased security on steep terrain compared with skiers. It is arguably more secure to side-slip on a snowboard (especially with axes…see below) than to side-slip/step with skis because the rider can completely face the mountain with a toe-side edge.
3. Poles are not needed/used (except for RG!) to snowboard, which allows for practical and full use of ice axes (to provide an anchor point or control a slide), the main tool of mountaineers.

Let me know if you want to borrow those skis, or a snowboard! (me rubbing Romeo a little after he says that a snowboard might be “easier” to use than skis because they are generally shorter…here’s your opportunity!)

AND:

HARD BOOTS VS. SOFT BOOTS FOR SNOWBOARD MOUNTAINEERING –

Stephen Koch: Really great discussion. This spring I have gone back to hardboots after 7 years in softboots for snowboard mountaineering. I am still working out my stance with the hard boots. My hardboot stance was roughly 45 degrees on each foot compared to 15 and zero or minus 5 on back foot for soft boots. My stance now with the Scarpa F1 Rendonee boots (baffled toe for flex make these very comfortable to skin / hike / climb in) is about 35 degrees each foot. It has been a gradual process to get back to the steeper angles, but I like it and it brings back so many memories and feelings from years of descents and general riding in hard boots (1988 to 2003…’87 was in Sorels). I imagine that with the hard boot modifications mentioned above by Barrows, he is able to ride in a “softboot” type stance?

I stayed in soft boots for the past seven or so years because I liked the surfy feel. My ability to safely travel in the mountains (in my mind) was severely limited as I was unwilling to use traditional soft boots in the mountains for the obvious reasons mentioned above…lack of Vibram sole (some softies have them now) for rock climbing, too soft to safely kick into all snow conditions or sidestep on firm snow without crampons, don’t like the feel of soft boots in strap crampons on firm snow/ice…sloppy and insecure, so basically I stayed out of the mountains for any steep/firm descents during that time. I did guide in soft boots and splitboard and on skis during that time. So yes, I skied more and enjoyed my ability to more around the mountain going up or sideways with greater ease and security. But every time I was descending on skis, in less than ideal conditions or in powder, I was longing for my snowboard.

Backcountry Splitboard Setup

My splitboard setup now is a super light (no top sheet!) Rome board, Dynafit toes for the up with the Scarpa F1 boots, Voile Splitboard Binding Interface with Burton Race Plate Bindings – minus the base plates…custom drilled and mounted to the sliderplate, fat crampons from B and D Ski Gear that work with the Dynafit toes. B and D also has metal crampon holders to replace the weak plastic Dynafit crampon holders and crampon “locks”, to keep them down when in steep/lifter mode.

Skinning on a splitboard on firm terrain with hardboots is WAY safer and more comfortable and less taxing physically than with soft boots.

Holding an ice ax when riding coupled with the ability to completely face the slope is a huge advantage of snowboarding vs. skiing. Skiers have died from slipping on icy slopes without the ability to swing in an ice ax (Hans Saari for example) or not carrying one because it is awkward to swing in when standing with your feet perpendicular to the slope. A Black Diamond Whippet is not an ice ax!

SPLIT TRANSITION VS. SKI TRANSITION -

I am slower than most skier with the transition from splitboard to snowboard. That being said, the Scarpa F1’s sure help with their rear throw to tighten and lock in the forward lean all in one. I did a descent with AJ and he rips both up and down with his short skis and solid board/hard boots. I used that system for years but am super stoked to ride a splitboard to not carry the weight of an extra tool when one can do both!

IDEAL GRAND TETON DESCENT -

Sure – the GT descent we can all aspire to is a complete, ropeless one. A monstrous belief in ones ability to succeed, huge huevos or ovaries, willingness to try and exceptional conditions will be needed for that. I would love to shoot video if anyone wants to give it a try…and I will buy drinks after, so long as you survive…but will definitely be drinking either way. Wondering if, on the belayed descents of the Chevy, there was any sideslipping or if turns were made the entire way. If sideslipping is “OK” then all it will really take is for someone strong enough to lock off with one arm holding an ice ax and lower/sideslip through the crux. This is what I have done on numerous descents when conditions allowed or didn’t allow…depending on how you look at it! Have fun and come home. That is success.

AND:

Ptor (Spricenieks)…long time indeed. Enjoying writing with you here…turning on snow together better!

Regarding the Whippet, I have a KSO (Keen Sense of the Obvious) thanks to my mother…that being said though, I think many skiers who don’t have much alpine climbing (ice ax) experience may rely on it more than is safe. It is important to know the limitations of your tools. With ice axes, one is able to penetrate (with sharp picks and an experienced swing/s) the hardest snow and ice.

luke…I have popped open bindings/come out of the race plate binding ONLY while using the Dynafits that are not meant to take a bail…the ones with a shallow and rounded toe rand. Otherwise, with boots made with a DIN type toe I have NOT popped out of a plate binding.

Regarding climbing up the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton to save weight on gear…not my thing as I love ice climbing and more importantly, like to climb what I ride to intimately know what I will be encountering and where during the descent – hidden or unexpected ice, barely covered rocks, etc. I think it is accurate to say that not climbing up what they descended significantly contributed to how most dead skiers/riders who died skiing or snowboarding extreme terrain met their end…Saari on Gervasutti, Siffredi on Everest, Gouvy on Aiguille Vert, among many others…

There are a few descents that I did not climb before descent for either laziness or safety…Black Ice Couloir (Laziness…took the short route to the upper saddle vs. the long route via the Valhalla Traverse and up the BI) and the Gervasutti Couloir (Safety…big hang fire) are a couple of examples.

It seems like most things in life are a balancing act. The risks inherent with going into the mountains are part of my balancing process. Personal responsibility! When I blame others (usually if I don’t like the way it turned out), I realize with hindsight, it is from my own fear and insecurity.

And it looks like Arne Backstrom died while skiing a route on Pisco (5752M), in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, which he did not climb…

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http://straightchuter.com/2009/05/expeditions-the-proposal/

Photo - Corey Rich

Stephen Koch rides some firm ’snow’ on Puncak Jaya, New Guinea, Indonesia.

To claim a successful descent, should it start from the summit of a mountain?

Start at the summit if possible. I have done descents where there was no snow at the actual summit. I summited and began the descent where the snow began, and stopped turning where the ended. When you climb and descend closer to “winter”, there tends to be more snow (outside of the Himalaya). Sometimes though, a mountain will get special snow coverage at one time or another during the year and if you are “on” it, you can make a descent that may rarely, if ever be possible to do again (especially with global warming).

Are you allowed to rappel?

We / You are allowed to do whatever we deem necessary to stay alive, whatever you want…that is the beauty of the mountains. It is important that all facts are clearly stated when describing the descent though. I liken this to using aid on a climb. It is fine to do (as a last resort), but just needs to be declared.

What’s better…rappelling or downclimbing?

The ideal “descent” is to climb a virgin mountain by the route of planned descent, making a first ascent of the peak and route, then at the summit, which has snow, along with the entire route that you just climbed, great powder snow for that matter, since I am writing about the ideal. Then on the summit you take off your crampons and put on your board/s and rip the descent down to the flats at the bottom of the mountain. Well, there aren’t too many scenarios like this left, so we make due…but the bottom line is that I do what I feel comfortable with given the conditions of the route at that moment and based on my ability and how I feel at that moment. If I need to downclimb or rappel because I am not confident with either the conditions or my abilities, fine. More power to me to do this than to take a less cautious approach and possibly fall to my death. On the scale of best style, a complete descent…turning all the way is the holy grail, sideslipping past “unskiable” snow or terrain comes next, then downclimbing and finally, rappelling. Downclimbing is usually more difficult than rappelling.

Photo: Jimmy Chin

Stephen Koch rides good snow on Mount Everest.

What if someone skis a line in better style…or conditions?

If I do a descent where I downclimb (or rappel) a section on a first descent, it is still the first descent. If someone comes along the next day and does the same descent with bigger huevos or in better conditions and does not downclimb or rappel, they did the first “free” descent. If they sideslip is it a “free” descent? That is an interesting one…I would say yes. Can someone sideslip an entire route and claim a descent…sure. It happens all the time in Corbett’s Couloir. Again, the bottom line is to have fun, stay alive and declare your aids.

What about huge expeditions, where a Sherpa may be carrying your gear…while you’re sucking the O’s?

The use of supported expeditions with oxygen changes everything and I think it needs to be clarified whenever referencing climbs or descents if oxygen was used. I think it is important to clarify if something done on the higher mountains (8,000 m) was done “with” or “without” oxygen. It doesn’t matter that the general public doesn’t realize or understand the difference. We as climbers do know the difference and that difference is so profound that I believe it needs, as stated earlier, to be declared with all climbs and descents of high mountains. When I was on Everest we had 2 Sherpa team members. This was definitely helpful. Is it different than paying for a strong “Western” climber to be a part of your expedition? This is a different issue for another time. Point is, declare your aids and the community can judge your claim accurately (with as many different opinions as there are people…!!!).

What if someone skis 100’, raps 2000’, then skis 100’ back to camp…valid descent?

The community will determine if the descent is valid. But the person who made the descent had an experience that is solely their own. Nobody else can know that experience. But as long as people know the facts they can judge, and judge they will! I don’t want to set any rule here. I love the mountains because of the lack of rules of men, only the ultimate rules apply…the rules of nature.

I guess I would have to say yes, it is a valid descent. Who is to say that 2000’ or 200’ or 20’ is too much rappelling for a valid descent? Another way to look at it is…is it either a complete descent…the ideal…or one where aid was used. Let’s have this reflected in the grade of the route when describing a route. For example:

XYZ Couloir- E, 2000’, AS/AD/AR, 55°

E=Extreme
AS=Aid Sideslipping
AD=Aid Downclimbing
AR=Aid Rappeling

Photo - Wade McKoy

One example: when Mark Newcomb and I descended the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton, we belayed the first 200′ of 60 degree snow over ice. It was my idea to use the rope. Mark wasn’t too psyched to use it, but acquiesced because I wanted to. I was scared and glad he was tied in, because on the first turn he uncovered black ice! This is not to say he would have fallen without the belay, I was just glad he was roped up and that I would be getting a belay too. Then we rappelled 200′ over unskiable / unridable 70′ water ice. Then I (not Mark) clipped into our ropes that were anchored to a V-thread (or screw) that we set. The ropes were tied together so I was on a “long” belay. Then we packed up the ropes and turned the rest of the couloir until it ended in a large cliff, which we rappelled.

Photo - Stephen Koch

There was a bit of controversy about the Black Ice descent, which we did in 1994. There has not been a second descent. If someone goes and does it without any belays or rappels (either jumping the big cliffs or downclimbing them) this will be better style but not the first descent. We already did that. It may be the first complete or full descent (very unlikely that someone could jump and stick the landing and not tumble to their death, but nothing is impossible). We chose to belay and rappel because of the conditions of the mountain and our ability, skill and comfort (or lack of it). I always welcome folks to up the ante of one of my descents, as Newcomb did on Talk is Cheap on Cody Peak by downclimbing to avoid a rappel.

That is what happens…people come along with talent, vision and the knowledge of what has been done, with what is possible and take it one step further! That is evolution, progression and what happens in climbing, snowboarding, skiing, paragliding, driving, holding our breath, going into space, looking at nano-this and that…you get the picture…it is all the same and it is called evolution!

Mark Newcomb and Stephen Koch on top of Cloudveil Dome during the first ascent of the Grand Traverse in Winter.

This was first published in Alpinist Magazine in June, 2004.

On January 17 at 4:45 a.m. Mark Newcomb and I began the Grand Traverse, a route that comprises ten peaks (in order: Teewinot, Owen, Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Spalding, Gilkey’s Tower, Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce) in Grand Teton National Park. Despite several attempts, this historic route had not had a complete winter ascent; the proper combination of good weather, stable snow conditions, mental preparedness and top physical stamina had eluded teams over the years. I had attempted the Traverse on several occasions, usually ending at Teewinot, the weather having taken a turn for the worse.

After several hours, we caught up with Renny Jackson and Hans Johnstone–who were also attempting the Traverse–midway between Teewinot and Owen. We began working together as a team of four, breaking trail in the deep snow and cold temperatures, climbing Owen, rappelling into the Gunsight Notch, and climbing out to the top of the Grandstand (at the base of the North Ridge of the Grand Teton), where we bivied.

After enjoying the first rays of the rising sun over the Wind River Range, we began preparing for the crux of the Traverse: the Italian Cracks. Hans and Mark led this section, while Renny and I followed. Once we were all safely on the Second Ledge, Mark and I soloed around to the Owen-Spalding Route. The ascent of the Grand Teton via the upper part of this route was spectacular, with much rime ice plastered to the rock.

At the Lower Saddle, Mark and I decided to continue up and over the Middle Teton in the remaining light, while Hans and Renny elected to stay at the Saddle to dry one of Renny’s boots, which had become wet the day before, resulting in frostbite damage to one toe. That second night saw Mark and me struggling to stay dry as wind blew spindrift into every nook and cranny of our stove and sleeping system.

We were hoping to have Renny and Hans with us as we departed the third morning, but after a brew and oatmeal there was still no sign of them, so we began climbing in full conditions. On top of the South Teton, where we were pounded by sixty-mile-per-hour gusts, we discussed abandoning our ascent. I suggested we continue until we absolutely had to bail, and we continued the Traverse over the South Teton toward Nez Perce. From Nez Perce’s summit we descended to the Platforms and our skis, which had been brought up by friends, and skied to the valley floor, arriving back at my truck in the dark. The following day Renny and Hans made it safely down to the valley.

The first winter Grand Traverse involved much teamwork by four friends. Winter climbing in the Tetons is a special experience, and those willing to brave the cold and avalanche danger will be rewarded with solitude and beauty.

– Stephen Koch, Jackson, Wyoming