On February 6, 2007, Hans Johnstone and I completed a new route on the north face of the Grand Teton, Squeeze Box (IV M7, A0, 1,000′). The line lies between Shea’s Chute and the Alex Lowe Memorial Route and ascends a weakness up a beautiful granite buttress. I had spotted the line during a flurry [...]
New Route on North Face of Grand Teton in Winter
March 28th, 2009 · No Comments · Climbs
Tags:grand teton·grand teton north face·mountaineering·new route·squeeze box·teton mixed climbing
Light Traveler – New Route on Denali / McKinley
March 8th, 2009 · 2 Comments · Climbs, Expeditions, McKinley / Denali, Writing
This story was first published in the 2002 edition of The American Alpine Journal.
Five. That is the number of times that I have stopped. Stopped during the coldest, darkest and most painful time on this journey. Stopped to kick the life back into my dying toes. It feels like I am lifetimes away from safety [...]
Tags:alpinism·denali·light traveler·marko prezelj·mckinley·moonflower free·new route·single push climbing·sleep deprivation·stephen koch
