Stephen Koch » mark newcomb

Allison Von Maur and Mark Newcomb have a baby!

Stephen Koch — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:01:22 +0000

Congratulations to Allison Von Maur and Mark Newcomb for the safe outward arrival of their baby boy, currently unnamed. Allison gave birth to Baby “Von Newc” at St. John’s Hospital in Jackson, WY on July 16, 2009 at 12:45 a.m. He weighed in at a beefy 7 lb 9 oz. and 19.5 in. Mark said, “He came fast. I would’ve given our doc a catchers mitt if I had one cause she pretty much needed one.”

Stay tuned for a name…

His name is Charlie. Below is photo of him on his first day outside of Allison. Congratulations Mark and Allison!

Grand Traverse – First Winter Ascent

Stephen Koch — Thu, 19 Feb 2009 05:03:47 +0000

Mark Newcomb and Stephen Koch on top of Cloudveil Dome during the first ascent of the Grand Traverse in Winter.

Stephen Koch

This was first published in Alpinist Magazine in June, 2004.

On January 17 at 4:45 a.m. Mark Newcomb and I began the Grand Traverse, a route that comprises ten peaks (in order: Teewinot, Owen, Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Spalding, Gilkey’s Tower, Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce) in Grand Teton National Park. Despite several attempts, this historic route had not had a complete winter ascent; the proper combination of good weather, stable snow conditions, mental preparedness and top physical stamina had eluded teams over the years. I had attempted the Traverse on several occasions, usually ending at Teewinot, the weather having taken a turn for the worse.

After several hours, we caught up with Renny Jackson and Hans Johnstone–who were also attempting the Traverse–midway between Teewinot and Owen. We began working together as a team of four, breaking trail in the deep snow and cold temperatures, climbing Owen, rappelling into the Gunsight Notch, and climbing out to the top of the Grandstand (at the base of the North Ridge of the Grand Teton), where we bivied.

After enjoying the first rays of the rising sun over the Wind River Range, we began preparing for the crux of the Traverse: the Italian Cracks. Hans and Mark led this section, while Renny and I followed. Once we were all safely on the Second Ledge, Mark and I soloed around to the Owen-Spalding Route. The ascent of the Grand Teton via the upper part of this route was spectacular, with much rime ice plastered to the rock.

At the Lower Saddle, Mark and I decided to continue up and over the Middle Teton in the remaining light, while Hans and Renny elected to stay at the Saddle to dry one of Renny’s boots, which had become wet the day before, resulting in frostbite damage to one toe. That second night saw Mark and me struggling to stay dry as wind blew spindrift into every nook and cranny of our stove and sleeping system.

We were hoping to have Renny and Hans with us as we departed the third morning, but after a brew and oatmeal there was still no sign of them, so we began climbing in full conditions. On top of the South Teton, where we were pounded by sixty-mile-per-hour gusts, we discussed abandoning our ascent. I suggested we continue until we absolutely had to bail, and we continued the Traverse over the South Teton toward Nez Perce. From Nez Perce’s summit we descended to the Platforms and our skis, which had been brought up by friends, and skied to the valley floor, arriving back at my truck in the dark. The following day Renny and Hans made it safely down to the valley.

The first winter Grand Traverse involved much teamwork by four friends. Winter climbing in the Tetons is a special experience, and those willing to brave the cold and avalanche danger will be rewarded with solitude and beauty.

– Stephen Koch, Jackson, Wyoming

A few words about my friend Mark “Newc” Newcomb and the Black Ice Couloir

Stephen Koch — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 04:49:53 +0000

Mark Newcomb and I skied and snowboarded much of the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton in the middle 1990’s. We used a rope to belay the first 200′ because it felt like the right thing to do. I think Mark would have preferred to not have used the rope but acquiesced because I wanted it. There was an odd rain crust on top of the snow and black ice lurking underneath the snow. Newc uncovered some on his second turn! Mark “Newc” Newcomb is a supreme skier and climber who I am honored to have made some really fun and wild descents with, both in the Tetons and around the world. He is a quarky lad whose strength to weight ration rivals many 14 year old girls. He is nearly half my size and carries packs as large, if not larger, than I do. He is a quiet guywith much going on behind his kind eyes. He recently was married to Allison Von Maur, a former therapist, skier, climber and all around woman whose family owns and runs the Von Maur stores in the mid-west. I wish them a happy life together!

Working late

Stephen Koch — Fri, 14 Nov 2008 09:50:39 +0000

Vinson Ski and Snowboard Expedition Team (Photo: Wade McKoy)

I like to work late. While in Antarctica after climbing and snowboarding the Vinson Massif in 1999, I had the opportunity to let my internal clock adopt its own schedule. I gradually, over the course of a week, went from going to sleep at 10 p.m. to going to sleep at 6 or 7 a.m. I believe this change occurred because of the constant light and lack of schedule as we waited for the Hercules C130 transport plane to land on the ice and take us back.

I saw Emily Coombs recently working out at Mountain Athlete with her ski gear. Emily was smiling and I thought of Doug, who was on this expedition to Vinson, along with Mark Newcomb, Dirk Collins, Wade McKoy and Doug Stoup. Five out of the six of us were from Jackson, so we not so cleverly named ourselves the Jackson Five. Doug had masses of energy and built a pull-up bar by stacking solid Antarctica style snow blocks with his skis across the top. When the sun was out we would get to work on that thing by doing pyramids of pull-ups. The way a pyramid works is all in the group do one pull-up, one after the other and repeat until you reach your max, say 10, then do 10 again and work your way down to one. So a pyramid to 10 is 110 pull-ups. I do pull-ups “strict” now, which means without the help of my lower body. When I was doing pyramids to 20 I was definitely using my legs and “kipping.” The first time I did a pyramid to 20 was with Alex Lowe in Mendoza, Argentina. For the week after I had to get out of bed and off the ground from my stomach so I could use my arms and legs. This was due to the soreness from all the muscle tearing that occurred in my stomach.

I find it odd that my first blog post has me writing about two friends who died in the mountains. Might have something to do with it being 3:11 in the morning.

I am not in Antarctica now and my young son will be up in 4 hours calling for his nuk (milk).

Sleepy sleep…