Shattered from getungrounded on Vimeo.

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Photo of me doing some mixed climbing at the Ouray Ice Park before the competition.

The comp route, put up by Vince Andersen at al, was excellent this year! This was my second year competing. I had fun, climbed well and ended up roughly in the middle of the pack. Click here for comp results.

Congratulations to Josh Wharton on his dominant win!

It is not easy to put yourself out there to compete at the elite level, with a crowd and judges. To all those who competed, creating a fun and supportive environment, thanks and congratulations!
Will Gadd is my hero! He ice climbed 24 hours straight, climbing over 25,000 feet of ice! See below.

Will Gadd climbed non-stop for 24 hours at the Ouray Ice Park in an event billed as The Endless Ascent to raise money for the dZi Foundation, which builds programs to improve education and quality of life in the small villages of the Himalaya. No one has pulled this sort of feat off, but if anyone can do it, it’s an ice master and freak of fitness like Will. This is a GREAT opportunity for all of us climbers to support a cause that truly makes a difference. You can get more details, follow the Twitter feed and MAKE YOUR DONATION at: www.endlessascent.org

Help support StephenKoch.com by purchasing a pair of the hottest crampons on the market, the Petzl Dartwin’s at Backcountry.com.

My Family

I don’t look at my recent solo climb of the Black Ice Couloir in Grand Teton National Park as “taking risk.” I look at it as going home or touching the wildness in me that I tend to lose when I am out of the mountains for long. It was also simply returning to one of the most magical places I know on the planet, the west side of the Grand Teton, alone. I have been there many times alone, but not for a long, long time…so long in fact that I don’t remember the last time I was there, but I would guess 12 years.

On the Valhalla Traverse, Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming Photo: Stephen Koch

This climb was pivotal for me for another reason. I had not soloed a significant climb (technically challenging or big alpine route with exposure and objective dangers…Black Ice being the latter for me) since becoming a father to my young son, Axl, who is nearly 3 and a half years old. I wanted to experience the thrill of pushing against my comfort zone, having forgotten exactly where it is. I quickly learned where it was in regards to changing diapers! I am not speaking of the typical “thrill seeker” rush, but the thrill of moving alone in an alpine world that was once so familiar to me. The thrill of moving fast over technical terrain. The thrill of sharing what I was experiencing, and IN REAL TIME, with people through my Blog, Facebook and Twitter updates (here), the thrill of recording “How To” climbing tips (coming soon) while in the crux of the route, the thrill of choosing the fastest and safest line and doing it without a rope, the thrill of knowing an error would likely be fatal, the thrill of putting myself in a situation where I am master and I answer to the laws of nature for my actions. I felt completely empowered during this climb, as with all climbs, in a way that I am unable to duplicate outside of the mountains.

Ice climbing in the Tetons

To reduce some of my anxiety (at the expense of my body by carrying the extra weight) I brought a rope, small rock rack and harness, in addition to my ice axes, crampons and helmet. If I felt like I needed to belay (protect) a section I had the gear to do so. If I wanted to rappel (out of the climb) because of discomfort, I could have done it (not easily though!). If I needed to do a self rescue or clip into an anchor if I was hit by a stone, I had the gear to do it. Does this guarantee success? Absolutely not. Does this guarantee safety? Absolutely not. Does this guarantee anything at all? No. What it did do was make taking the risk on this climb more reasonable. Did I believe there was much chance I would fall? Absolutely not. I solo in a way that is very controlled. Is there a chance that I COULD fall? Yes. It wouldn’t be climbing without this risk or unknown. This risk and unknown is precisely why climbing is so magical! No guaranteed outcomes here! If you want that, check your local listings…

Stoked to discover the Black Ice Couloir is Back (in)! Photo: Stephen Koch

Self exploration and expression through danger has been part of my DNA since I was a small boy. Through my move to Jackson Hole 22 years ago (to take a year off before college), I found a wonderful new outlet for my energy and desire. That outlet was snowboarding. Not long after I began snowboarding, my eyes were drawn to high lines on mountains I knew I had the talent to snowboard but not the ability to climb. That is when I found a mentor, someone willing to hold my hand as I stumbled forward into the exciting unknown of the alpine world. That person was Tom Turiano, local guidebook author of Teton Skiing and Select Peaks Of Greater Yellowstone. Tom not only showed me the ropes, he did much more than that by demonstrating great patience as I continued to enthusiastically and at times naively clamor for more. I rode on his coattails for my first season in the high Tetons. The year was 1989 and the Middle, Grand and South Tetons felt the wonderfully ephemeral touch of a snowboard for the first time. After a season in Chamonix I returned to the Tetons with a new set of eyes and set about challenging myself on eventual Teton Classics with a vengeance.

Working a stem and the camera phone on the crux of the Black Ice Couloir, Grand Teton National Park, WY Photo Copyright - Stephen Koch

In regard to the risks involved with my passions, alpine, rock, ice and mixed climbing as well as snowboard mountaineering, as a father and husband, I say this: to follow my heart, which is to participate in these activities, and in this instance, to solo the Black Ice Couloir, brings me closer to my self and to my family. By living my truth I honor my family. When I return from the mountains I am calmer, more at peace, more tolerant of both myself and others, more my true self, temporarily shed of insecurities built while in the valley. My family experiences a happier and more pleasant husband and father. If I die in the mountains, my wife and son will have known the real me, not some pretend father. I will not pretend it is better to stay out of the mountains and away from danger because I am a father and husband. This is a judgment left up to the individual.

Fun in the sun after the ascent. Photo copyright- Stephen Koch

Staying out of the mountains would be suicide for my soul. The numerous times I have been forced to stay out through injury have been torturous. As I envision going down that path, I see my family experiencing a man devoid of his essence. Bitterness and resentment towards them would grow like a weed. I am the climber and risk taker my wife chose to be with. The risks I take, to me, are reasonable. I train my body through working out at Mountain Athlete and by doing and teaching the many wonderful activities in and around Jackson Hole that make my home special…mountain biking, rock climbing, backcountry snowboarding, hiking, rafting, lake and river swimming, hot spring soaking and on and on. I train my mind through both meditation and physical suffering.

Safe and Happy at the Upper Saddle of the Grand Teton after the climb! Photo Copyright - Stephen Koch

This time it was the Black Ice Couloir, next time where will it be? I am open and excited to discover and choose what’s next! Oh yea, one other thing, I am so well trained that I did the dishes before departing on this adventure!

Smoke that gave me black lung from running down during my 9 hour 45 minute solo of the Black Ice Couloir. 15 minutes faster than when I was a "kid!" Photo Copyright - Stephen Koch

View from below the entrance to the Black Ice Couloir, Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

I climbed the Black Ice Couloir in Grand Teton National Park last week. I had a blast and it was the first moderately serious solo climb that I have done in several years. The climbing and conditions were favorable and felt moderate enough where I did not break out the rope, which I took as an added measure of safety. I could have belayed (protected myself in case of a fall…only falling 10 or 20 feet instead of 1,500…) myself with the rope or used the rope to rappel (slide down the rope off of anchors, some permanently in the rock (no bolts!) and other I could have left with the small selection of equipment I brought).

The Black Ice was gone (melted out due to lack of snow and warming of the earth) and now is back, possibly due to President Obama’s more progressive efforts to combat global warming?

The ice may hold out through the winter without sublimating out, but only time will tell. It was thin at the crux (most difficult section) but still climbable with ice axe picks in ice!

There might even be enough ice/snow next spring or summer for someone to make a snowboard or ski descent!

I shot several “Climbing Tips” videos that I will roll out over the coming days and weeks as we get fired up for ice climbing season!

Cheers,

Stephen

The route climbs Raven (Prospector’s) Falls, then the steep climbing begins after a 300′ or so scramble to the business above. Seven steep, exciting and challenging pitches bring one to the ridge.

The difficulty of the pitches are as follows:

Pitch 1 – M6, Pitch 2 – M6+, Pitch 3 – M7+, Pitch 4 – M7, Pitch 5 – M6, Pitch 6 – M6 R/X, Pitch 7 – M4/5.

Sam and I completed the route in 23 hours car to car after only a few hours of sleep before heading out.

I highly recommend this route to anyone who is up for a big mixed climbing challenge in GTNP.

Following are a few images:

Photo - Stephen Koch

This was the second year I competed and I am very pleased with my 5th place finish. Last year I did not make it into the finals. My success this year must have had a great deal to do with the weight of my outfit!

Photo Copyright Tommy Chandler / www.tommychandler.net

My strategy was to drop the few pounds of clothing to give myself an advantage. It must have worked because there were several of us who fell off the comp route in about same place.

I am thankful to my coaches, Rob Shaul and Dan Corn, at Mountain Athlete (www.mtnathlete.com), who helped me train for the comp. I worked hard in the cave and pretty much stopped the leg workouts, save for my instructing and guiding work, which was plentiful during the latter 2 weeks of December. I wanted to hang from my ice tools as much as possible, which was three times a week at 6 a.m. I am also thankful to all the other athletes at Mountain Athlete who were in at 6 a.m. for your love! Thanks for the motivation, psyche and support. It is so much easier for me to get fired up to workout with other folks, even if we are doing our own thing. Dan Corn had me doing multiple laps in the cave, working on figure 4′s and doing a fair amount of core in addition to shoulders. He had to throw an occasional sled push just for the fun of it!

The comp route was set by Vince Anderson and was of good quality, albeit a bit too difficult since nobody finished it. Josh Wharton, a who fought a good fight on it, ended up winning the comp despite falling near the end. He hung on a LONG time. Nice work Josh!

I gave a clinic on Friday morning at 9 a.m. on Anchors, which went well. It snowed hard for most of the three hours we were together, but that didn’t stop us from having a good time and learning! I had several interesting students from around the country. Their experience varied but all were able to learn and practice making an equalized two screw ice anchor and nobody was injured or killed!

David Stubbs, (www.davidstubbs.com) road tripped down with me for the event. David is a super affable, easy going guy who is an excellent and creative photographer. We were making pictures for Cloudveil, my clothing sponsor. David and I spent a bunch of time with Mark Beverly, (www.strikerescue.com) and Gordon McArthur (www.machavok.com), two Petzl athletes who were a hoot to hang with and who showed us some great moves in the Poser’s Lounge Cave up near Camp Bird.

Photo Copyright Stephen Koch

Photo – Stephen Koch

My roommate, who makes a mean fucking cup of coffee and always has good Single Malt Whiskey, Jack Roberts, (www.jackrobertsclimbing.com), is a treat to room with and was totally cool with David crashing on our floor. We stayed at the Victorian Inn, which recently was sold. I will be staying across the street next year at the Box Canyon Inn. The Vic is done in my mind…drains not working, hot tub was filthy, problem getting a room, the free breakfast…no milk, honey, peppermint tea, bowls, hot water yada yada yada…I wish the new owners success, but they will have to start taking care of the basics or they are going to lose all their longtime patrons.

An amazing dinner was had one evening by David and I at the Great little Italian place (can’t remember name!) with Dana Richardson from the American Alpine Club and her five fun and fine friends. The Outlaw is another great restaurant where David and I split a rack of ribs, had an outstanding beef soup and were taken care of by a lovely waitress who took pity on us, seeing we were very hungry and in need of food after our soak in Orvis, a truly excellent (clothing optional) hot springs 10 miles down the road form Ouray and very well worth a trip each and every year! The various pools at Orvis are all different with pebbles on the floor of the main pool, super hot pots, cooler ones with waterfalls, sauna, kitchen, massage yerts etc…well worth the $14! Guinness at O’Brien’s pub is good along with the Fish and Chips! Enjoy!