I did make some turns along the north side of the ridge traversing to the glacier on my way to ride the Gervasutti Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul. The “Gervasutti,” as it is known, is situated between a bergschrund at 3465 meters and the summit ridge at 4200 meters and was first climbed in 1934 by the Italian Giusto Gervasutti and his companion Renato Chabod. The steepness of the couloir averages 45° and is 55° at its steepest.   The Gervasutti has seen a number of tragedies over the years, including that of my friend and occasional skiing and chess partner Hans Saari . Hans fell in the direct entrance to the couloir after losing his edge on ice. Check out the link above to know more about the Hans Saari Memorial Fund and the good work they are doing in Hans’ honor!

The Gervasutti was first skied by Sylvain Saudan on the 17th October 1968. Saudan is one of the great early pioneers of extreme skiing.

Here is a 1 minute video of  Tobias Granath skiing the Gervasutti. The video shows the steepness of the couloir nicely.

I opted to break the golden rule of climbing what you ski/ride on this instance, and paid a small price…others have not been as fortunate as I. The Gervasutti has towering seracs menacing the slopes below. To minimize the risk of getting wiped out from an ice avalanche if the ’schrund calved, I walked up the back side instead of climbing directly up the couloir under the “hang fire,” before dropping in, as Hans had done. I slipped on ice towards the lower part of  the Couloir but was able to self arrest with my ice ax and eventually able to force an old, dull Russian titanium ice screw into the ice and clip into the screw with a daisy chain (leash) attached to my harness just as my gloved hand slipped out of my ice ax leash. Phew! A quick change to crampons for a short climb to the snow, and soon I was riding again. I jumped the 15′ bergschrund at the bottom of the couloir and, upon landing, popped out of both bindings! My binding screws were loose!

Let’s just say, after this and a couple other near misses, I was fortunate to make it out of Chamonix alive and with many learning experiences to learn from moving forward!

I like the short video below…of a Frenchman skiing four routes on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi above Chamonix.

Enjoy!

4 routes.2 friends.1 camera. from sébastien montaz-rosset on Vimeo.

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Help support StephenKoch.com with a sharp new ice ax to use on YOUR next steep descent from Backcountry.com.

Petzl Sun'Tec Mountaineering Ice Ax

Fresh off his win of the Freeride World Tour 2010, Candide busts out with Candide Kamera 2. Like the first edition, CK2 showcases Candide’s silky smooth style and his ability to see lines like a snowboarder – all big air and jibs. Also like the first one there’s a looooong, boring intro to grind through. If you’re here for the skiing go ahead and skip to 1:50.

And all this in his first season back from injury? Can’t wait to see what the man busts out with in 2011. Pilfered from Chamonix Insider.

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Help support StephenKoch.com with a pair of freestyle skis from Backcountry.com that will have you at least looking more like Candide!

Post Lake Michigan Winter Swim

This morning I went for a short run, which I rarely do, with my host in Chicago, Gene Marcowka, seen below in the running photos. What a beautiful morning we had getting out early for the short run and swim. It was quite tricky running with verglas (thin layer of ice) in places. It was reminiscent of being in the mountains after a fall storm, potentially treacherous.

Gene running along the shore of Lake Michigan.

A couple friends, musicians who I know through the Grand Teton Music Festival in Jackson Hole, came over this morning for a workout after my run with Gene (and a warm shower to heat up my toes and fingers!). We did a bunch of Burpees, tele-lunges, wall sits, hamstring exercise, dips, core workout and my favorite, simply jumping up as high as possible from a crouch and repeating 10 x! These and other exercises are available on Mountain Athlete’s website.

Off to Northwestern to give a lecture to music students about keeping your cool under extreme circumstances. For me it was during and after a 2,000 foot fall in an avalanche. For them it will be during auditions!

I am taking a deep, relaxing breath right now, which reminds me to be more conscious of the ever present moment, all that is. And I, and the world, benefit.

Stephen Koch

In 1965, an American chemical engineer from Muskegon called Shermin Poppin combined the sports of skiing and surfing to invent ‘The Snurfer’. It was meant only as a gift for his daughter Wendy, but within a year an estimated 500,000 had been sold across the United States. Snowboarding as we know it today was on it’s way.

Here is a link to a more detailed history, starting after this point. Interesting to note Wiki misses this history…

Enjoy!

Help support StephenKoch.com and slide sideways downhill on a Rome Snowboard at Backcountry.com. Click on the photo below…

Rome Design Snowboard

ALTITUDE EFFECTS ON PRE-EXISTING MEDICAL PROBLEMS

The reduced amount of oxygen at altitude may have adverse effects on preexisting medical problems. New or increased symptoms such as shortness of breath and a rapid pulse may occur with heart and lung problems. Blood pressure may increase transiently and some may develop swelling in their feet and ankles. There are no easy guidelines for when medical assistance is necessary in these circumstances, but if you feel you need assistance call Dr. Bruce Hayse at 307-733-6700. His office is conveniently located at 269 West Broadway in Downtown Jackson.

DEHYDRATION

Dehydration occurs much more frequently in Jackson Hole than at lower elevations because our relative humidity is very low. Dehydration can sap one’s energy, cause headaches and effect athletic performance. The best rule of thumb is to drink enough fluid to cause the need to urinate every three hours. Take frequent water or fluid breaks during vigorous activities such as snowboarding, skiing, mountain biking, hiking and mountaineering.

ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS

Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS is a syndrome which can range from mild headaches to an incapacitating illness. Although it generally occurs when one sleeps at altitude above 8,000 feet, about 5% of Jackson Hole’s visitors will develop some symptoms. Frequent symptoms are headache, nausea, insomnia, fatigue, lack of appetite and light-headedness. Generally symptoms will improve with rest and fluids over 24 to 48 hours. There is a prescription medicine called Diamox which can help prevent AMS and other medications for symptomatic relief. Alcohol, tranquilizers, sleep medication and antihistamines may make Acute Mountain Sickness worse. Consult with a physician before using any of these drugs when suffering from AMS. AMS can progress into a much more serious illness known as High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). This medical emergency is heralded by an incapacitating headache, neurological symptoms such as a “drunken” gait, and may proceed to a coma. Prompt emergency help is critical with HACE.

FROSTBITE

Frostbite is the actual freezing of the skin and underlying tissue. The most frequent areas affected are the fingers, toes, nose and cheeks. Frostbitten areas initially look white and then turn red. A purple hue to the skin usually means a more severe freezing problem. Most frostbitten extremities tingle or feel numb initially and hurt with rewarming. Seek medical attention if you suspect frostbite.

SUNBURN

High Altitude predisposes one to sunburn and snow blindness (sunburn of the eyes) because there is less atmosphere to filter out ultraviolet rays. Sun block / Sunscreen is mandatory for those with sensitive skin and should be used by all to prevent discomfort and aging effects of sunburn. In addition, sunscreen helps protect from the possible increased risk of skin cancer caused by excessive sun exposure. In winter as well as summer, wide – brimmed hats will help protect sensitive ear and exposed scalps. Snow blindness is prevented by wearing UV filtering sunglasses. Side panels which block reflected light are also helpful when on snow and water.

NOSE BLEEDS

Nose bleeds will also occure more frequently in Jackson Hole due to the dry air, perticularly in the early mornings. Using a vaporizer, Vaseline and avoiding colds will help prevent this problem. If a bleed occurs, pinching the nose for 5 to 10 minutes will usually stop the bleeding. If it does not stop, contact Dr. Bruce Hayse at 307-733-6700.

ALCOHOL

The effects of alcohol and other drugs are dramatically increased at altitude. At Jackson Hole’s elevation of 6,200 to 6,400 feet above sea level, the effect of alcohol will be approximately double for the seal level inhabitant. Also, hangovers will be worse at altitude. If you are going to consume alcohol, do it responsibly and drink plenty of water too!

Once a Teton classic ice climb, the Black Ice has dwindled in recent years from a combination of rising temperatures and dwindling snow. The prolific winter of ‘07/’08 coupled with fortuitous September storms had me believing an ascent would be possible.

The footage for this video was shot primarily with a VIO POV camera I mounted on my helmet. Additional footage was shot with a couple of digital cameras.

I have a long and interesting history with the Black Ice, with many ascents and the only snowboard descent that involved some belayed turns, a rappel and a whole lot of what I used to think of as “fun.”

I had attempted the Black Ice with the intent to descend it on my snowboard 2 times before finally making turns on her exceedingly steep and exposed terrain. First time was solo and the second was with the late Alex Lowe, an alpine and ice climbing mentor of mine who was truly a gifted, positive and extremely motivated alpinist. Alex died after being hit by a massive avalanche that buried him on Shishapangma while ascending the SW Face. I occasionally still tap into his positive energy.

When I climbed the Black Ice alone I knew I needed a partner for this descent. With Alex, after making the ascent of the BI with our gear, we weren’t fired up enough to attempt the descent in the current conditions – very snow covered but with a fairly gnarly crust that would have made turning in control even more difficult than turning on 50+ degree terrain with huge exposure requires.

As a consolation for our efforts we skied and snowboarded from the upper saddle to the lower saddle and decided to climb and make the second descent of the NW Ice Couloir on the Middle Teton. I had completed the premier descent earlier in the season while working at the lower saddle.

I was scared watching Alex ski the NW couloir in, if I remember correctly, his mountaineering boots. He wasn’t going to fall, but I didn’t know that for sure at the time and his slightly out of control looking turns didn’t lend confidence. I had been with people who had lost control on my first two big routes in the Tetons, the Middle and the Grand. They took falls/slides and I thought I was going to witness someone die. They didn’t and I started soloing after that. I figured I needed my mental energy to take care of myself when doing the wild mountain descents.

Went back to BI with Mark Newcomb and snowboarded much of it…that is another story all its own that I don’t have time for at the moment but look forward to sharing soon.

Black is Back! Or at least was in wild mixed scary (loose rock) alpine conditions for another moment in time. But what is our time, and the time that the Black Ice was in over the past several hundred/thousand years anyway? A moment in the scheme of time, albeit a slightly longer moment than during this scrappy ascent…

Mark Newcomb and Stephen Koch on top of Cloudveil Dome during the first ascent of the Grand Traverse in Winter.

This was first published in Alpinist Magazine in June, 2004.

On January 17 at 4:45 a.m. Mark Newcomb and I began the Grand Traverse, a route that comprises ten peaks (in order: Teewinot, Owen, Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Spalding, Gilkey’s Tower, Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce) in Grand Teton National Park. Despite several attempts, this historic route had not had a complete winter ascent; the proper combination of good weather, stable snow conditions, mental preparedness and top physical stamina had eluded teams over the years. I had attempted the Traverse on several occasions, usually ending at Teewinot, the weather having taken a turn for the worse.

After several hours, we caught up with Renny Jackson and Hans Johnstone–who were also attempting the Traverse–midway between Teewinot and Owen. We began working together as a team of four, breaking trail in the deep snow and cold temperatures, climbing Owen, rappelling into the Gunsight Notch, and climbing out to the top of the Grandstand (at the base of the North Ridge of the Grand Teton), where we bivied.

After enjoying the first rays of the rising sun over the Wind River Range, we began preparing for the crux of the Traverse: the Italian Cracks. Hans and Mark led this section, while Renny and I followed. Once we were all safely on the Second Ledge, Mark and I soloed around to the Owen-Spalding Route. The ascent of the Grand Teton via the upper part of this route was spectacular, with much rime ice plastered to the rock.

At the Lower Saddle, Mark and I decided to continue up and over the Middle Teton in the remaining light, while Hans and Renny elected to stay at the Saddle to dry one of Renny’s boots, which had become wet the day before, resulting in frostbite damage to one toe. That second night saw Mark and me struggling to stay dry as wind blew spindrift into every nook and cranny of our stove and sleeping system.

We were hoping to have Renny and Hans with us as we departed the third morning, but after a brew and oatmeal there was still no sign of them, so we began climbing in full conditions. On top of the South Teton, where we were pounded by sixty-mile-per-hour gusts, we discussed abandoning our ascent. I suggested we continue until we absolutely had to bail, and we continued the Traverse over the South Teton toward Nez Perce. From Nez Perce’s summit we descended to the Platforms and our skis, which had been brought up by friends, and skied to the valley floor, arriving back at my truck in the dark. The following day Renny and Hans made it safely down to the valley.

The first winter Grand Traverse involved much teamwork by four friends. Winter climbing in the Tetons is a special experience, and those willing to brave the cold and avalanche danger will be rewarded with solitude and beauty.

– Stephen Koch, Jackson, Wyoming

A dreadlocked freshman named Johnny asked a couple of questions during the q and a about moving “out west” and taking time off from college. I could tell he knew the answers to his questions already…he is ready to pack up and move out west to live the mountain lifestyle. It is a matter of him getting quite and truly listening to what is inside his heart. Letting the mind settle down enough to see deep down.

I am touched when I inspire folks to listen to their heart. Whether it is to leave college and move out west to ski and climb or it is to go for your doctorate degree. Connecting with other humans is the coolest part of speaking to groups and sharing my stories and adventures.

The weather is warm and rainy in southern New Hampshire at the moment. It looks like it will cool down a bit, which will be good for climbing. I am hopefully heading up to Cannon Cliff to climb a couple routes tomorrow with Alan Catabriga. Cold temps will help!

This was the second year I competed and I am very pleased with my 5th place finish. Last year I did not make it into the finals. My success this year must have had a great deal to do with the weight of my outfit!

Photo Copyright Tommy Chandler / www.tommychandler.net

My strategy was to drop the few pounds of clothing to give myself an advantage. It must have worked because there were several of us who fell off the comp route in about same place.

I am thankful to my coaches, Rob Shaul and Dan Corn, at Mountain Athlete (www.mtnathlete.com), who helped me train for the comp. I worked hard in the cave and pretty much stopped the leg workouts, save for my instructing and guiding work, which was plentiful during the latter 2 weeks of December. I wanted to hang from my ice tools as much as possible, which was three times a week at 6 a.m. I am also thankful to all the other athletes at Mountain Athlete who were in at 6 a.m. for your love! Thanks for the motivation, psyche and support. It is so much easier for me to get fired up to workout with other folks, even if we are doing our own thing. Dan Corn had me doing multiple laps in the cave, working on figure 4’s and doing a fair amount of core in addition to shoulders. He had to throw an occasional sled push just for the fun of it!

The comp route was set by Vince Anderson and was of good quality, albeit a bit too difficult since nobody finished it. Josh Wharton, a who fought a good fight on it, ended up winning the comp despite falling near the end. He hung on a LONG time. Nice work Josh!

I gave a clinic on Friday morning at 9 a.m. on Anchors, which went well. It snowed hard for most of the three hours we were together, but that didn’t stop us from having a good time and learning! I had several interesting students from around the country. Their experience varied but all were able to learn and practice making an equalized two screw ice anchor and nobody was injured or killed!

David Stubbs, (www.davidstubbs.com) road tripped down with me for the event. David is a super affable, easy going guy who is an excellent and creative photographer. We were making pictures for Cloudveil, my clothing sponsor. David and I spent a bunch of time with Mark Beverly, (www.strikerescue.com) and Gordon McArthur (www.machavok.com), two Petzl athletes who were a hoot to hang with and who showed us some great moves in the Poser’s Lounge Cave up near Camp Bird.

Photo Copyright Stephen Koch

Photo – Stephen Koch

My roommate, who makes a mean fucking cup of coffee and always has good Single Malt Whiskey, Jack Roberts, (www.jackrobertsclimbing.com), is a treat to room with and was totally cool with David crashing on our floor. We stayed at the Victorian Inn, which recently was sold. I will be staying across the street next year at the Box Canyon Inn. The Vic is done in my mind…drains not working, hot tub was filthy, problem getting a room, the free breakfast…no milk, honey, peppermint tea, bowls, hot water yada yada yada…I wish the new owners success, but they will have to start taking care of the basics or they are going to lose all their longtime patrons.

An amazing dinner was had one evening by David and I at the Great little Italian place (can’t remember name!) with Dana Richardson from the American Alpine Club and her five fun and fine friends. The Outlaw is another great restaurant where David and I split a rack of ribs, had an outstanding beef soup and were taken care of by a lovely waitress who took pity on us, seeing we were very hungry and in need of food after our soak in Orvis, a truly excellent (clothing optional) hot springs 10 miles down the road form Ouray and very well worth a trip each and every year! The various pools at Orvis are all different with pebbles on the floor of the main pool, super hot pots, cooler ones with waterfalls, sauna, kitchen, massage yerts etc…well worth the $14! Guinness at O’Brien’s pub is good along with the Fish and Chips! Enjoy!

Flag over Mount Owen and Grand Teton, WY By Stephen Koch

On Sunday I drove to the Grand Teton National Park with my family for something fun to do because it was too cold (-28) to go skiing with my son Axl, age 2 1/2. As we drove north on the highway the first crown I noticed was one I had seen the day before from the new Tram as we crested the top of Rendesvous Mountain and was blown away to see a massive (approx. 8′ crown to the ground…the entire snowpack) from Tower 5 all the way around to the north of Horseshoe Couloir, several hundred feet across). I could easily see the Tower 5 crown from miles north in GTNP. This avalanche was set off by the Ski Patrol with a 2 lb. bomb and had been bombed daily during the past days, without event. Why did it go this day? The deep slab instability is lurking and nobody knows where it will strike next.

I was surprised to see a crown on the east face of Buck Mountain and then another on the east face of Teewinot. These must have been massive to see so clearly from miles away in the middle of the valley.

Buck Mountain Showing Avalanche Crown Grand Teton National Park, WY By Stephen Koch

It was so cold that I watched my finger turn white before my eyes in about 25 seconds. That was time to put the camera away!

Jackson Hole in winter is a magical place. Enjoy!