On February 6, 2007, Hans Johnstone and I completed a new route on the north face of the Grand Teton, Squeeze Box (IV M7, A0, 1,000′). The line lies between Shea’s Chute and the Alex Lowe Memorial Route and ascends a weakness up a beautiful granite buttress. I had spotted the line during a flurry [...]
Entries Tagged as 'Climbs'
New Route on North Face of Grand Teton in Winter
March 28th, 2009 · No Comments · Climbs
Tags:grand teton·grand teton north face·mountaineering·new route·squeeze box·teton mixed climbing
Black (Ice) Is Back
March 18th, 2009 · No Comments · Climbs, Entertainment
In the late Fall of 2008, with Tristen “Trippy” Sieleman, an extremely funny and good looking (might come in handy for spooning on a bivouac) man who I met through his girlfriend, Carrie Dagher, one of the funnest, most loving and positive people I know (and sexy as hell to boot), I returned to the [...]
Tags:Add new tag·black ice couloir·global warming·Ice Climbing·ice recession·melting glaciers·teton ice
Light Traveler – New Route on Denali / McKinley
March 8th, 2009 · No Comments · Climbs, Expeditions, McKinley / Denali
This story was first published in the 2002 edition of The American Alpine Journal.
Five. That is the number of times that I have stopped. Stopped during the coldest, darkest and most painful time on this journey. Stopped to kick the life back into my dying toes. It feels like I am lifetimes away from safety [...]
Tags:alpinism·denali·light traveler·marko prezelj·mckinley·moonflower free·new route·single push climbing·sleep deprivation·stephen koch
Grand Traverse – First Winter Ascent
February 18th, 2009 · Comments Off · Climbs, Entertainment, Jackson Hole, Training
Stephen Koch
This was first published in Alpinist Magazine in June, 2004.
On January 17 at 4:45 a.m. Mark Newcomb and I began the Grand Traverse, a route that comprises ten peaks (in order: Teewinot, Owen, Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Spalding, Gilkey’s Tower, Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce) in Grand Teton National [...]
Tags:first ascent·first winter grand traverse·grand teton·grand teton national park·grand traverse·hans johnstone·mark newcomb·renny jackson·ski mountaineering·stephen koch·winter grand traverse·winter mountaineering
Raven Crack-ed
February 8th, 2009 · 2 Comments · Climbs, Ice Climbing, Jackson Hole
The Raven Crack, across from the Snaz Buttress in Death Canyon, Grand Teton National Park, WY, was finally climbed this winter by Sam Magro, a strong and genial 27 year old from Bozeman, MT, and me last Wednesday. It was my fourth attempt on the route. The line is a thing of beauty and [...]
Tags:death canyon mixed climb·grand teton national park mixed climb·ice climbing grand teton national park·raven crack·sam magro·snaz buttress·stephen koch
Ice Axe Cave Training at Mountain Athlete
December 18th, 2008 · No Comments · Climbs, Jackson Hole, Training, Uncategorized
Below is a short video of me training at Mountain Athlete. This workout, called Birdbrain and written out below, was very intense. One of my coaches, Dan Corn (a.k.a. Coach Junior) describes his intentions with it. I felt very pumped going without resting through the laps and sled push. I was able to rest while [...]
Tags:death canyon·full moon·mixed climbing·mountain athlete·raven crack·robshaul·snowboard mountaineer·stpehen koch·tetons
Stephen Koch interview on Conan O’Brien Show
December 2nd, 2008 · No Comments · Climbs, Expeditions, Snowboarding, Uncategorized
What a great experience it was to be on the Conan O’Brien Show before heading to Everest in summer 2003. I was burning the midnight oil by leaving a fundraiser at the Snake River Brewery in Jackson, WY at eleven or so, being driven to SLC for a 6 a.m. flight and arriving with not [...]
Tags:conan o'brien·jimmy chin·seven summits snowboarding quest·snowboarding mount everest·stephen koch interview·the north face·tibet
Serious Winter Mountaineering
December 2nd, 2008 · No Comments · Climbs, Expeditions
This short video is from a climbing trip to the Canadian Rockies that I did last winter. It was a great trip that culminated in a winter ascent of the Andromeda Strain on Mount Andromeda. In this video, my partner, Jack Jefferies is climbing up to the belay with only one ice axe (not easy!), [...]
Tags:andromeda strain·exum mountain guides·jack jefferies·Jackson Hole·serious winter mountaineering·stephen koch·teton mountaineering
Falling!
December 2nd, 2008 · No Comments · Climbs, Interpersonal Communication
Last week I took the longest (roped) fall of my 20 year climbing career. It was a 45 foot “whipper” that happened while mixed climbing in Granite Canyon, WY, not far from Bondurant, WY. Two ominous things happened that morning. There was miscommunication on my part which led to the ice screws being left [...]
Tags:bondurant·bruise·falling·granite canyon·granite hot springs·ice climb·injury·Jackson Hole·nature·nietzsche·rock climbing·safety·self reliance·that which does not kill us makes us stronger·wy·wyoming
Slideshow from winter ascent of the Andromeda Strain in the Canadian Rockies
November 22nd, 2008 · No Comments · Climbs, Expeditions
Tags:andromeda strain·canadian rockies·expedition·exum mountain guides·Ice Climbing·jack jefferies·mixed climbing·mountaineering·ski mountaineering·stephen koch·talking heads·winter climbing·winter survival skills
