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Ice Climbing Tips with Stephen Koch

January 10th, 2011 · 2 Comments · Ice Climbing, climbing tips

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2 responses so far ↓

  • 1 A.K. // Jan 13, 2011 at 7:56 pm

    wondering if you could elaborate on your ti-block usage and when you would want to carry “a lot more”.


    Stephen Koch Reply:

    Petzl Tiblics are a great tool. I have used them to simul-climb (climb together, or move at the same time, as leader and follower). The way I have done this is by clipping the Tibloc to a solid piece of gear (or two if using two ropes). This protects the lead climber from getting pulled off if the second falls. The way this works is the teeth of the Tibloc bite into the rope and cease the rope from sliding further. I like to file the fires few little teeth down to help limit the chance of the Tibloc teeth tearing the sheath off of the rope. It is important to always have solid gear and to do this every ropelength, so that the leader is always protected from getting pulled off by the second. Bringing 4 Tiblocs will allow you to climb 4 ropelengths (with a single rope) together. Make sure you clip into the rope and the Tibloc with the carabiner. And make sure the carabinger is a locker/locking and that the diameter of the carabiner is fairly large. The Petzl Attache and Attache 2 have worked well for me as carabiners to utilize with the Tiblocs to simsul-climb. Note: If the rope does not pull up once you have clipped the Tibloc into the Locker, turn it around so the teeth are facing up. You most likely have the teeth facing down, which prevents the leader from going up.


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