View from below the entrance to the Black Ice Couloir, Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
I climbed the Black Ice Couloir in Grand Teton National Park last week. I had a blast and it was the first moderately serious solo climb that I have done in several years. The climbing and conditions were favorable and felt moderate enough where I did not break out the rope, which I took as an added measure of safety. I could have belayed (protected myself in case of a fall…only falling 10 or 20 feet instead of 1,500…) myself with the rope or used the rope to rappel (slide down the rope off of anchors, some permanently in the rock (no bolts!) and other I could have left with the small selection of equipment I brought).
The Black Ice was gone (melted out due to lack of snow and warming of the earth) and now is back, possibly due to President Obama’s more progressive efforts to combat global warming?
The ice may hold out through the winter without sublimating out, but only time will tell. It was thin at the crux (most difficult section) but still climbable with ice axe picks in ice!
There might even be enough ice/snow next spring or summer for someone to make a snowboard or ski descent!
I shot several “Climbing Tips” videos that I will roll out over the coming days and weeks as we get fired up for ice climbing season!
Cheers,
Stephen
2 responses so far ↓
1 Alexander // Feb 4, 2010 at 8:30 pm
Thanks for posting about the Black Ice. My first trip to the black was an hilarious epic. Two friends and I made the trip in the summer of 2001 (I think) and got off-route, ending up North of the Summit of the Grand. Apparently this happens occasionally to climbers who get confused on the backside of the big mountain. We ended up descending a scary scree gulley the next day after a cold night on a ledge and rapped off boulders and other untrustworthy items. Guides told us this mistaken route is called the “Grand Circumcision”. It was my first real mixed climb attempt. A year later two of us came back to enjoy the real Black Ice and it was a fine day. It was generally enjoyable and rhythmic except for one scary rock traverse that my partner led. Later I became a Russian Orthodox Monk and now pursue a different kind of “ascent” but I agree, solos are the most extraordinary type of experience to be had in the mountains and I understand your attraction. It’s sad to hear the Black is suffering. I remember a big snowfield at the bottom – maybe it’s even gone now. All the best to you and your family.
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Stephen Koch Reply:
February 6th, 2010 at 4:54 am
Thanks for sharing your experience Alexander! I was not familiar with the Grand Circumcision. Wow…going from climber to Monk. What brought that change on and what do your current “ascents” feel like?
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