Stephen Koch

26Tips for More Efficient (and safer) Climbing:

1. Leave earlier than you think you need to.
2. Pick fast partners and go climbing with various partners who are better (technically, mentally stronger, physically stronger) than you so you can learn from them.
3. Go light. Leave the bivouac sack and bag/s behind and commit. Obvious consequences apply.
4. Use light weight carabiners.
5. Use spectre slings.
6. Carry less cams and an extra set of nuts if you may need to make rappels.
7. Use 5 mm cordalettes but make sure you use them properly when rapping off of sharp rock and know that they can be SCARY to rap off and take expertise to safely use.
8. Back up rappels and send the heavier or better at making anchors (hopefully both) climber first.
9. Practice Making V-Threads until you can nail them FIRST TRY AT LEAST 80% OF THE TIME, even when getting pounded with spin drift, have frozen fingers, minimal light etc.
10. Lead in blocks.
11. Have the stronger climber lead whatever they are best at. If one is stronger at all, and you want to push hard on a route that will take a long time, get over your ego and be the belay bitch for the climb. If leading is important to you, do easier or shorter climbs where being slower won’t matter as much.
12. Pull on gear (aid climb)  if it means moving faster. Just remember to declare your aids when you are writing your trip report!
13. When seconding, climb as fast as you can. You can rest at the belay.
14. When belaying the second, keep them tight so they can accomplish #11 more easily. A tight rope is safer and gives confidence…the exception to this is traversing where you do not want to pull your partner off balance.
15. Never drop gear, and when you do, get over it fast because keeping that angst and anger in doesn’t usually help.
16. Get your belay change-overs dialed and know how you are going to do them before leaving the ground. Examples…slings over the shoulder or tripled and made into draws, gear racked on harness or on gear sling.
17. Eat, Drink, Pee, change layers etc. while belaying, whether belaying the leader or second. Just make sure you NEVER LET GO OF YOUR BRAKE HAND!
18. Use a Petzl Reverso to belay the second (automatically locks upon fall so you can be hands free to accomplish #15 above).
19. Carry only one pack between the team for the second to carry. Lighten the load of the pack if necessary by tying your jacket around your waist, have your water bottle and shoes/boots attached to your harness, put a warm hat, phone, tape and food in your shoes which are attached to your harness.
20. Approach when it is cool if heat is a factor.
21. Make a topo/route map for each climber in the group and carry it in your pocket to easily review while belaying or as needed.
22. Know how you will descend…rappel or walk off.
23. Use a single rope if possible.
24. Always bring a headlamp!
25. The rescue gear that I always carry on the back of my harness on a small carabiner – Petzl e+LITE Emergency Headlamp, Petzl Tibloc, Knife and 2 short prussicks (and coat hanger V-Threader when applicable).
26. Additional emergency gear / first aid gear I usually carry – roll of athletic tape (Johnson and Johnson makes the best), Petzl Myo-XP headlamp, space blanket for 2, Water/Iodine tablets, duct tape (for blisters or repairs…about 20′ worth), balaclava, sunglasses, sunscreen, lipbalm (can be used when dehydrated to help fool you into believing things are not as bad as they probably are!), Ibuprofin and Percocets.

May you have a safe, fun and successful adventure!