Stephen Koch

8 responses so far ↓

• 1 Terri Parham // Mar 30, 2009 at 10:48 pm

  Cool way to coil. I usually do a single coil… but your way is much faster. Thanks for the video.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 31st, 2009 at 3:07 pm

  You’re welcome!

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• 2 Kate C // Mar 31, 2009 at 10:08 am

  Thanks! Your finish looks like it will hold the coil together much better than my kind of lame girth hitch, which always falls apart.

  For doubles, say, after you’ve finished your raps and you’ve got a hike back to the packs, can you coil the two ropes together into one butterfly? Or is that just a mess waiting to happen?

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 31st, 2009 at 3:07 pm

  I have never coiled two ropes together and it sounds like a mess waiting to happen. I have worn two separately coiled ropes on my back at once though! You can give one rope to each climber and the rack to the stronger climber. Or all to stronger person if being maximally efficient is of importance. As a team you move as fast as your slowest person.

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• 3 Scott // Apr 10, 2009 at 6:02 pm

  Thanks for the useful video on how to butterfly coil a rope. It is a LOT faster than my one-loop-at-a-time method.

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• 4 Peter K // May 4, 2009 at 5:25 pm

  Very helpful, thanks. I’ve watched the guides do that a number of times, and by the time I’m back home I ‘ve forgotten just how they did it.

  If you have a chance, I’d like to hear your thoughts on the Cloudveil Traverse. I’d like to find something with sustained 5.6 to 5.7 and lots of photo opportunities. From the description on the Exum site, it sounds like a good deal of the traverse may be scrambling or low Class 5

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  May 8th, 2009 at 11:19 am

  Peter,

  If by the “Cloudveil Traverse” you mean the Grand Traverse from the Middle or South through to Nez Perce, in good (dry) conditions, the climbing is not generally (if you find and take the easiest way) harder than 5.6 and is definitely not “sustained.” If you want a more sustained 5.7 route, check out the South Ridge of Nez Perce. This is one of my favorite climbs in the Park. Back to the latter part of the Traverse – the views are spectacular with many photo opportunities. Much of that part of the traverse is scrambling, so moving quickly and efficiently over easy terrain is paramount. Also knowing when to rope up (if needed for your level) and doing it efficiently and for as long as needed only, is key to moving fast and therefore being safer.

  The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers are a great resource of information for climbing and conditions beta and can be reached at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station in GTNP or via their blog here http://www.tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/
  The chances that the ranger on duty has climbed the traverse is very good and they have photos and valuable route and current conditions information they are happy to share.

  May you have a safe, fun and successful outing.

  Cheers,

  Stephen

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• 5 Andrew // Jul 3, 2009 at 9:27 am

  Holy awesome.

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