Thank you for your note. That follow through, back into the eight, is called the “Yosemite 8″ finish. Make sure you snug the knot by pushing and pulling on the knot. I heard there is one limitation with this finish…that in a rescue scenario the knot could “roll” over itself. I don’t think this is at all likely, especially when snugging knot down as mentioned before.

May safe, fun and successful climbing be yours!

Soon coming are videos on sharpening crampons and axe picks!

Cheers,

Stephen

Thanks for the book beta.
Cheers,
a

The Lowe route has been repeated. I don’t know if Lookin for Trouble has had a repeat. You can also call the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers and ask them, or better yet, stop in there before you head up for your climb. They can be reached at 307.739.3399 and they have a blog at http://www.tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/

Get the book and get after it!

Cheers,

Stephen

I’m reading Teewinot by Jack Turner. He writes about bailing from what later became know ans the Lowe Route (Buttress) between the Enclosure and Black Ice Couloirs. I can’t seem to find much about it? Do you know if it’s been repeated?

Cheers!

You are stretching me here with your questions but I will answer them.

I believe a writer does not need to judge a character. As with life, it is better to live and let live. There are so many who are scared and defensive (myself included at times) who cannot let others do what they do because of their fear. They basically say, “if it is not done my way, it is not good.”

If a writer judges a character this way, how can the character grow and experience freely?

To answer your second question: Can a writer insert in their book stories from family and friends?

I believe a writer can do whatever they want as long as they declare their aids. If you are writing stories that are not your own, be honest and call the book “creative non-fiction” or “fiction” vs. “non-fiction.” But if the stories are true and from others that you know (friends or family), why not tell them if they are good stories? Again, as long as you let your readers know that some of the stories are or may not be from personal experience.

I imagine there are guidelines to follow for this type of thing. I have not looked into it because all I have written so far is from personal experience.

May your writing go well for you!

Cheers,

Stephen

I made turns down a different line than I climbed up and nearly paid the ultimate price.

Push your limits in the BC of Cham…there is a helicopter flying around all the time specifically TO rescue people! Not that I suggest relying on rescues, because I do not, but it is nice to know you can get one so long as you are not dead, then you at least know your body will be recovered…

Start small and build up, just like when you were a kid climbing up a tree and jumping off. I would jump from a slightly uncomfortable height, then, building on the success (assuming I didn’t hurt myself and had a relatively fun time), I would increase the height/exposure and repeat until satisfied, which usually meant scared silly or forgetting to close my legs upon landing and being over it after barely making it to shore.

Alpine Tips:

1. Pick objectives that you can move fast on.
2. Pick fast partners and go climbing with various climbers who are better (technically, mentally stronger, physically stronger) than you so you can learn from them.
3. Go light. Higher risk with no bivie sack or sleeping bag, but if you don’t have it you won’t use it!
4. Light weight carabiners and slim down the rack.
5. Spectre slings.
6. 5mm cordalettes (just make sure you use them properly when rapping off of sharp rock!)
7. Back up rappells and send the heavier or better at making anchors (hopefully both) climber first.
8. Make V-Threads until you can nail them (FIRST TRY AT LEAST 80% OF THE TIME) when getting hit with spin drift, frozen fingers, minimal light etc.
9. Lead in blocks.
9.5 Have the stronger climber lead whatever they are best at. If one is stronger at all, and you want to push hard on a route that will take a long time, get over your ego and be the belay bitch for the climb. If leading is important to you, do easier or shorter climbs where being slower won’t matter as much.
9.7 When seconding, climb as fast as you can. Be completely out of breath when arriving at the belay.
9.75 Keep the second tight so they can accomplish 9.7 more easily. A tight rope is safer and gives confidence…the exception to this is traversing where you do not want to pull your partner off balance.
9.8 Never drop gear, and when you do, get over it fast because keeping that angst and anger in doesn’t usually help.
10. Get your change overs dialed and know how you are going to do them before leaving the ground…Example…slings over the shoulder or trippled and made into draws…
11. Eat, Drink, Pee, change layers etc. all while belaying, whether belaying the leader or second. Just make sure you NEVER LET GO OF YOUR BRAKE HAND!
12. Use a Petzl Reverso to belay the second (automatically locks upon fall so you can be hands free to do #11 activities).
13. Carry only one pack between the team for the second to carry. Lighten the load of the pack if necessary by Tying your jacket around your waist, have your water bottle and shoes attached to your harness, put a warm hat, phone, tape and food in your shoes which are attached to your harness.

Have fun!