Stephen Koch

39 responses so far ↓

• 1 robert jefferis // Mar 28, 2009 at 8:02 pm

  i enjoy reading your enteries. actually have site bookmarked along with straighchuter and teton at. I have known of you for 10 years now, and look at your accomplishments as motivation for my adventures. I would like you to guide my girlfriend and i up the grand. what is a good month to plan a rock climbing trip? to climb owen spalding 5.4 rating? i need help routefinding as it would be my first time on the grand. robert jefferis out

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• 2 Stephen Koch // Mar 29, 2009 at 12:09 am

  Thanks Robert, for your comments. I am happy to know someone besides me gets something positive out of this!

  July/August are both good months for climbing in Tetons. Earlier offers more snow, so if you are comfortable on snow I suggest early for a couple of reasons. First is it is faster and second is it is softer and therefore easier on the knees!

  The O.S. is a great route with some fantastic climbing and exposure!
  Give me a call to discuss the details. The

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• 3 g-man // Mar 29, 2009 at 8:08 am

  Hey Stephen, I just found a vid of you climbing Cerro Torre. I am from Argentina and I don´t know what I am doing living in Buenos Aires? I need to move to Patagonia! Hey, here´s my question… I used to climb but had to stop for some time. I now have plans to start climbing again… which training (besides climbing) and diet would you recommend?

  Thx!

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 30th, 2009 at 11:30 am

  Hi g-man,

  Thanks for your question. I can’t help you with why you live in BA, but at least you are a pretty short flight and drive to Patagonia!

  I am glad to hear you are getting back into climbing after a break. Not knowing why you stopped (injury, work, etc.) I will generalize about starting training for climbing, and what type of climbing you are training for (rock, mixed, ice).

  Whether you are training for rock, ice or mixed climbing, the most important thing is to strengthen your hands and have strong forearms. This is very specific to climbing. That being said, it is also important to have a strong body to support your strong hands and forearms. Before I began working with Rob Shaul at Mountain Athlete (www.mtnathlete.com) I had success doing a circuit type workout that involves legs/chest/back (major muscle groups).

  This is a typical circuit workout that I did for several years, three times a week with 5 days of cardio and a big day in the mountains with a day of rest for a week.

  LEGS - Lunges (with or without weight…keep your back straight and stomach tight)
  CHEST - Push-ups (from your knees if necessary otherwise regular)
  BACK - Assisted Pull-ups (have one leg assist you throughout the pull-up and switch legs half way through the set)

  LEGS - Jumping Tele Turns (lunges in place…jumping from one into the next for 30 seconds)
  CHEST - Bench Press (or any chest workout that you have equipment for…if no equipment, do another set of push-ups with your hands offset…one hand farther in front, the other back and switch half way through the set)
  BACK - Lat Pulls

  LEGS - Wall Sits (lean against a wall with your knees at a 90 degree angle…as in a chair, just without the chair) 30 seconds to start and work up longer. If you want more, put a towel in between your knees and pull it with your hands, trying to keep it in with your knees!
  CHEST - Single arm bench with a dumbbell (this also works your stomach/core)
  BACK - Single arm rows with a dumbbell (I lean over with a straight back, supporting myself with the other arm on a bench or chair or weight rack, with same knee that you are doing the exercise with more bent and farther back than the other leg and pull the dumbbell up from the ground to your waist).

  THREE SETS OF THE ABOVE 9 EXERCISES. I let my heart rate drop below 125 beats per minute (BPM) before beginning the next set.

  When major muscles are complete I work the minor muscles.

  Shoulders/Biceps/Triceps/Calves/Core

  Three sets.

  Forearm workouts are good to do as well.

  I hope this helps.

  Good training and climbing!

  Stephen

  Diet: I try to eat good, unprocessed or limited processed foods. My activity load is very high and so is my metabolism, so I tend to eat a lot of food. I have done a couple of things that I think were effective for leaning up. First I cut out most carbohydrates – mainly breads/pastas/potatoes/cereals/alcohol while eating proteins and vegetables.

  I believe if you are exercising regularly (2-4 x week) and don’t overeat, you will lose weight. I suggest staying away from processed (fake) foods like margarine, Cheetos and the like. Instead eat butter, olive oil and other natural foods that your body doesn’t have to do odd things to process. Obviously check with your doctor about all this since I am NOT a doctor. I just know what has worked for me.

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• 4 Robbie Foust // Mar 29, 2009 at 8:45 am

  Great blog! Any advice for someone wanting to quit their well-paying job to move to Jackson? Sounds like the job market out there isn’t all that great right now. Not to mention the lack of affordable housing. Trying to figure out if I’d regret it later…(or if my wife would!) lol

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 30th, 2009 at 11:48 am

  Robbie,

  At this point in time I would not quite a job, much less a well paying one. The job market is hurting here in Jackson, as it seems to be throughout the country and world. That being said, if your heart is telling you to quit your job and move to the most beautiful place in the world with amazing mountains, wildlife and people, do it! Oh yea, I would recommend discussing it with your wife so that if there is regret that it is team vs. YOU. But what is the point of regret? If you listen to your heart and it says to quite your job and move to JH and you do it and all falls apart, you did what you thought/felt was right.

  Better yet, what about trying to get your employer to move you out to JH where you can work from home and organize the company retreat?

  Regarding the housing market, things have dropped between 20% and 30% for homes below $2 Million. Check out my Jackson Hole Real Estate Update http://stephenkoch.com/2009/03/jackson-hole-real-estate-update/ for more information on the local RE market.

  There are deals to be had if you are investing for the long term or if you are in love with the home/place. There may be bargains where you buy a place tomorrow and are able to sell it in a year, but I don’t have a crystal ball and cannot say what the Jackson Hole Real Estate market will be like in one or five years. All I know is that this place is a wonderful place to live, play, raise a family and be among lots of beautiful animals.

  May you make time to be quite enough to listen to the answers that are inside of you and then have the ability to take action on what feels right.

  May you be peaceful.

  Stephen

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 31st, 2009 at 3:08 pm

  Job market may be down but the riding is epic at the moment, and has been for a few days!

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• 5 Greg // Mar 29, 2009 at 3:47 pm

  The blog is nice. Watching it from Switzerland, so you even get an international audience . Maybe you could comment on your physical training and get into details of how you maintain your level of fitness. Other than that, videos showing “mountainering tips” are always appreciated, like the one with the knot.

  I have read you have been through some issues lately. Best of luck going through that, all of us have to at some point in life.

  Your son is really cute.

  Cheers – Greg

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 30th, 2009 at 11:55 am

  Greg,

  Thank you for your question and comments. I look forward to getting to Europe again sometime and taking my family!

  Fitness: I am regularly active outside snowboarding or climbing or riding my bicycles. In addition to this I workout regularly at Mountain Athlete (www.mtnathlete.com). Check out the workouts that are online there. Also, see the circuit workout that I wrote about for g-man.

  I plan to put up more “tips” via video in the coming weeks. Glad to know they are appreciated.

  Thanks for your words of support. It is nice to know that I am not alone.

  Cheers,

  Stephen

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• 6 Rick // Mar 29, 2009 at 7:12 pm

  What’s the longest, steepest ski descent in Wyoming you’ve done?

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 30th, 2009 at 12:06 pm

  Rick,

  Off the top of my head I would say the longest, steepest and cleanest ski descent in Wyoming that I have done is the Skillet Glacier on Mount Moran. The NE Ridge of Moran, which I completed the first descent of in 1998, is another long and steep descent. The Grand Teton is longer and steeper but it is not as direct and involves downclimbing or rappelling over technical terrain. Teewinot’s East Face is another long and steep descent. There are others too. Go explore and let me know what you find out!

  Cheers,

  Stephen

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• 7 Missoula // Mar 30, 2009 at 9:59 am

  I just skied the N. coulior on Mt. Abiathar…what the shit is up with the AC traverse?! I almost shit myself looking at that thang. How was it? Also, how was the climbing to the top?

  I have spent the last 10+ yrs exploring the terrain around Cooke and am always motivated about the lines you, Hans, Kris and others put down there…like the direct line off Republic in the N coulior and out on Glacier Peak….

  Huge motivation for me. I’d like to hear some more about the old days before you got $$ to travel.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 30th, 2009 at 12:18 pm

  Missoula,

  Glad to know that some of the descents I have done have been motivation for you and congratulations on your recent descent of the Y Couloir! What a line, eh!?

  That traverse was a wild one indeed! Big exposure, steep and in a beautiful location. I remember the snow being pretty good so that helped with security, both physical and mental. The climbing to the top I remember as being pretty exposed and not that well protectable but not overly difficult.

  Hans and Kris were fun and motivating partners who I was fortunate to share several outstanding adventures with.

  The old days…nearly getting killed by an avalanche on the Whymper Couloir of the Aguille Vert, losing an edge and having to self arrest with my axe on Les Courtes and on the Gervasutti Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul, moving to France after they changed the drinking age to 21 from 19 in Wyoming without grandfathering anyone in, when I was 20…fun adventures like that? I will write more about that soon.

  Keep up your exploration and may you have a safe, fun and successful spring season!

  Stephen

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• 8 Steph McDonald // Mar 30, 2009 at 10:28 am

  Hey man! I love the blog. I check it most days. I don’t usually make comments, though. I have a question for ya: Where is your favorite place to breakfast? Also, is hauling a weeks worth of gear and chow to the Ski Cabin, worth it? Is there enough good skiing around there? I have skied jackson peak in the spring, but never in the winter. Keep your chin up and keep chugging with the good work on the blog.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 30th, 2009 at 10:37 pm

  Hi Steph!

  Favorite place to breakfast…for the quick and delicious take out is D.O.G., for the hottest servers, fun art and delicious food is Shades Cafe. For the classic Pass experience, Nora’s – coffee is revolting so bring your own from home or better yet, pick it up from Pearl Street Wilson. Bunnery is good for a hangover meal…very heavy. In summer, Dornan’s has the best view and worth the drive for something different or to power up before heading up into the hills for an overnight when you don’t need the early start.

  Believe it or not I have not been to the ski cabin. I think a week is a long time to spend up there, but I am sure it would be a great place to chill with good folks and good food. Winter is a great time to be in the hills to miss the sun effecting the as much as in spring. Plus, powder snow is a real treat and easy on the knees!

  Have fun up there and let me know how it goes.

  Cheers,

  stephen

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• 9 Kate C // Mar 30, 2009 at 12:29 pm

  Hi Stephen!

  I doubt you’ll remember me, but my husband (Mark) and I climbed with you a few years ago on an “advanced rock school” day. You helped us increase our speed on multipitch climbs exponentially.

  So, I found your blog a few months ago, and I’ve really enjoyed reading (and watching) your stuff. I suppose we lurkers may not always feel we have enough knowledge or experience to comment back on your stuff.

  If you’re looking for suggestions for future posts or videos, I think a discussion on alpine rope technique would be a nice read. We recently bought our first set of doubles to help with climbs (and descents) on Lumpy and in RMNP, and so far, we’ve mostly made a mess. If you could do a video on coiling, stacking and managing ropes, that would be really useful. Also, when do you decide whether to use doubles or a single? Or double technique versus twin technique?

  Just some stuff we’re trying to work out right now. Advice is always appreciated!

  Kate

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• 10 local // Mar 30, 2009 at 7:45 pm

  hola stephen,

  Is there anyway you could make a video demonstrating how you sharpen crampon points and ice tool picks.

  Much apprecitaion.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  May 8th, 2009 at 11:01 am

  Hi Joel,

  Soon coming are videos on sharpening crampons and axe picks!

  Cheers,

  Stephen

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• 11 Missoula // Mar 30, 2009 at 9:03 pm

  Shit man, I don’t care about France…I can’t get there on two tanks of gas! Local lines are so much more attainable goals then vast, distance peaks in Dirkaistain…at least to us common folk.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 30th, 2009 at 10:16 pm

  Missoula,
  I can suggest a great book that may help you with your desire to explore more in your area. It is called “Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone” by Thomas Turiano, my friend and mentor. Check it out at http://www.selectpeaks.com. Didn’t mean to upset you by mentioning France, those early adventures came to mind when I thought about your earlier question about the old days. Writing of common…it was my goal to check out the place called Chamonix, France after snowboarding the Grand, Middle and South Tetons here in JH. They changed the drinking age and I lost my job as a busboy/waiter at the now closed Anthony’s Italian in downtown Jackson for not showing up one too many times due to heavy partying at the Targhee Bluegrass Festival. Moving to Chamonix really opened my mind through seeing what was being done there and through the exposure to the history of mountaineering in general. Cham is the birthplace of mountaineering. When I saw what had been skied and snowboarded, discontinuous lines or steep and wild ice climbs when they were covered with snow, my eyes were opened to new possibilities in the Tetons when i moved back here. I also gained the confidence and desire to step outside of my comfort zone of snowboarding steep lines at moderate altitude and travel to South America to attempt Aconcagua’s Polish Glacier.

  When I first went snowboarding at Jackson Hole, I knew I had found something that was all my own. This activity known as snowboarding. I never was into or very good at team sports. I moved to Jackson from Medway, MA, taking a one way flight here in November 1987. When I saw Snow King I commented that “the mountain” (thinking it was Jackson Hole) is huge! My driver, a beautiful young woman that I met on the plane who was kind enough to give me a ride to town said, “Yea, Snow King is pretty big.”

  Two years and well over 200 full days of riding later brought me to the base of Teewinot to try to follow Tom Turiano up the East Face. Only problem was that I was late arriving at our meeting spot, having slept past my alarm, and they were gone. I remember the eerie feeling I had as I approached the massive face from Lupine Meadows parking lot. It was so quite that the sound my boots squeaking on the frozen snow made was deafening. This coupled with my fears. I had never even climbed a Teton summit, much less alone and with a snowboard on my back. They were somewhere up there, a couple hours ahead, I lamely tried to reassure my self as I soldered on into the foreboding darkness. Light came, as it fortunately always does, with me still in the trees below the Apex. I nievely continued up, seeing two small figures high on the East Face pulling me onward. Eventually the snow warmed and my pace screeched to a halt with me post-holing where the others had cramponed on top of the snow. It was here that I took off my crampons and put on my snowboard and enjoyed the turns back to the car and eventually to Dornan’s, where I waited for the Tom.

  Getting left behind because I was late was a valuable first lesson, one of many lessons I have been fortunate to learn from Tom T.

  I returned later that another time to complete the first snowboard descent of the East Face with Wade McKoy.

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• 12 Scott B // Mar 31, 2009 at 5:09 pm

  Stephen,

  About what time of year does Jackson Lake become uncrossable on skis? After that time, is the walk around the lake a big pain or is renting a canoe easier?

  Thanks,

  Scott

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 31st, 2009 at 6:27 pm

  Not exactly sure when Jackson Lake becomes uncrossable on skis, but I imagine it will happen soon after it stops snowing and the sun shines for a few weeks. The crossing on corn snow in the a.m. will be fast skating! May even be worth having a nice chill after you are done to let the lake refreeze to skate back. I have never hiked over. Canoe over or if you don’t want to risk drowning you can hire a shuttle from Colter Bay. It is 15 minutes each way! I don’t know when they begin service.

  sk

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• 13 Scott B // Mar 31, 2009 at 5:12 pm

  I forgot to mention I read your blog every week. I like the vids and your descriptions of climbs. I’d love to read more detail about techniques used on hard alpine climbs.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  March 31st, 2009 at 6:29 pm

  Techniques like anchors, transitions, belaying tricks, making rap anchors while belaying and things like that?

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• 14 Guffey // Mar 31, 2009 at 8:23 pm

  I’m scheduled to climb the grand this summer with exum and I’m looking for some advice on ways to condition. What type of cardio/weight traing would you suggest?

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  April 3rd, 2009 at 1:23 pm

  Guffey,

  You might want to consider hiring a guide from Jackson Hole Mountain Guides (www.jhmg.com). They are the guide service in Grand Teton national Park that I recommend.

  Regarding training for a climb of the Grand, I would focus primarily on cardio and legs. Ideally run, bike, hike and get your heart pumping with your legs moving! Stairmaster, hike stairs, walk hills, stationary bike…all great ways to develop your strength and stamina in a very effective way that will benefit you while climbing in the Tetons. If you are inspired to climb a herder route (Petzolt Ridge, etc.) I suggest doing a little forearm training on a hang board. Or throw in some pull-ups with your cardio. Check out this workout, which I did for years before heading to Mountain Athlete to train with my Coach, Rob Shaul (www.mtnathlete.com).

  Training and diet – http://stephenkoch.com/2009/03/circuit-training-and-diet/comment-page-1/

  May you motivate and crush!

  Stephen

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• 15 Eduardo Costa // Apr 1, 2009 at 10:06 pm

  Stephen,
  I have two questions for you:
  Must the writer judge the character? Can the writer determine if the character is well intentioned or only the reader has to get his own conclusion?

  Can the writer insert in the book story from his friends and relatives? This story will be acknowledged easily by the people who know us.

  Excuse me by my English. I’m brazilian and I don’t know the English idiom very weel yet.

  I loved the book The modern library writer’s workshop. In portuguese: Oficina de escritores.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  April 14th, 2009 at 10:56 am

  Hi Eduardo,

  You are stretching me here with your questions but I will answer them.

  I believe a writer does not need to judge a character. As with life, it is better to live and let live. There are so many who are scared and defensive (myself included at times) who cannot let others do what they do because of their fear. They basically say, “if it is not done my way, it is not good.”

  If a writer judges a character this way, how can the character grow and experience freely?

  To answer your second question: Can a writer insert in their book stories from family and friends?

  I believe a writer can do whatever they want as long as they declare their aids. If you are writing stories that are not your own, be honest and call the book “creative non-fiction” or “fiction” vs. “non-fiction.” But if the stories are true and from others that you know (friends or family), why not tell them if they are good stories? Again, as long as you let your readers know that some of the stories are or may not be from personal experience.

  I imagine there are guidelines to follow for this type of thing. I have not looked into it because all I have written so far is from personal experience.

  May your writing go well for you!

  Cheers,

  Stephen

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• 16 Scott B // Apr 2, 2009 at 2:44 pm

  Stephen, thanks for the info.

  I was thinking more like how to stay hydrated and fed (what to eat) while on a multi-day technical climb. How to bivvy and stay sort of warm while on an alpine face. Do you like a little snow cave or prefer to spoon in the open with a single 20 degree bag? Is that warm enough to avoid cold injuries? To get any sleep? Tips on waste disposal. Do you take TP, Kleenex, or go without?

  Maybe this stuff is obvious to others, but it seems like no one ever talks in much detail about the procesees of living while on an awesome alpine wall. The technical part of climbing is well documented and a little easier to practice, although non-obvious tips and tricks in this area are fun to read as well.

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• 17 Greg // Apr 4, 2009 at 11:10 am

  Hi Stephen,

  Yes any tutorail on alpine techniques like anchor, usage of rope, rappeling, most commonly used knots would be alsolutely great!
  All this may be a little bit too much but any advise will be greatly appreciated!

  Have fun on your side.

  Greg

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• 18 foo // Apr 5, 2009 at 11:34 am

  First question: How do you train for steep descents?

  I’ve been trying to balance splitboarding with in bounds riding so I can handle trickier terrain, and seem to have reached a plateau, where I don’t quite have the confidence to go down anything above 40-45° in good conditions, but can’t really train to go past that because that’s not really an in bounds option most places.

  I don’t want to push my limits in the BC because of the many additional factors in play – higher avalanche risk, rock exposure, glaciated terrain, being farther from rescue, etc.

  (This is my second season in Chamonix, there’s probably going to be a third next year ^_^)

  Second question: Can you share some tips for efficiency in an alpine environment? Every experienced person I’ve met always has a bag of tricks, it’d be nice to know yours.

  Thanks

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  April 13th, 2009 at 4:23 pm

  When I was doing steep descents on a regular basis I would train by riding as much variable terrain as possible as often as possible. Getting out on icy, crappy snow all over the mountains, especially at the areas available via lifts around Chamonix, will give you the skills necessary to handle steep (over 45 degrees) terrain in good conditions. Go find steep pitches with limited or no exposure (above cat tracks for example) and make a few turns. Go climb the Petit Aguille Vert, go hit Les Courtes NE face. I had a near epic on the NE face of Les Courtes in 1990 when I hit some ice high on it and had to self arrest with my ice axe. I fortunately had an ice screw on my harness which I barely got into the ice (was using a dull titanium screw) and clipped my harness to just as my hand slipped out of my wrist loop!

  I made turns down a different line than I climbed up and nearly paid the ultimate price.

  Push your limits in the BC of Cham…there is a helicopter flying around all the time specifically TO rescue people! Not that I suggest relying on rescues, because I do not, but it is nice to know you can get one so long as you are not dead, then you at least know your body will be recovered…

  Start small and build up, just like when you were a kid climbing up a tree and jumping off. I would jump from a slightly uncomfortable height, then, building on the success (assuming I didn’t hurt myself and had a relatively fun time), I would increase the height/exposure and repeat until satisfied, which usually meant scared silly or forgetting to close my legs upon landing and being over it after barely making it to shore.

  Alpine Tips:

  1. Pick objectives that you can move fast on.
  2. Pick fast partners and go climbing with various climbers who are better (technically, mentally stronger, physically stronger) than you so you can learn from them.
  3. Go light. Higher risk with no bivie sack or sleeping bag, but if you don’t have it you won’t use it!
  4. Light weight carabiners and slim down the rack.
  5. Spectre slings.
  6. 5mm cordalettes (just make sure you use them properly when rapping off of sharp rock!)
  7. Back up rappells and send the heavier or better at making anchors (hopefully both) climber first.
  8. Make V-Threads until you can nail them (FIRST TRY AT LEAST 80% OF THE TIME) when getting hit with spin drift, frozen fingers, minimal light etc.
  9. Lead in blocks.
  9.5 Have the stronger climber lead whatever they are best at. If one is stronger at all, and you want to push hard on a route that will take a long time, get over your ego and be the belay bitch for the climb. If leading is important to you, do easier or shorter climbs where being slower won’t matter as much.
  9.7 When seconding, climb as fast as you can. Be completely out of breath when arriving at the belay.
  9.75 Keep the second tight so they can accomplish 9.7 more easily. A tight rope is safer and gives confidence…the exception to this is traversing where you do not want to pull your partner off balance.
  9.8 Never drop gear, and when you do, get over it fast because keeping that angst and anger in doesn’t usually help.
  10. Get your change overs dialed and know how you are going to do them before leaving the ground…Example…slings over the shoulder or trippled and made into draws…
  11. Eat, Drink, Pee, change layers etc. all while belaying, whether belaying the leader or second. Just make sure you NEVER LET GO OF YOUR BRAKE HAND!
  12. Use a Petzl Reverso to belay the second (automatically locks upon fall so you can be hands free to do #11 activities).
  13. Carry only one pack between the team for the second to carry. Lighten the load of the pack if necessary by Tying your jacket around your waist, have your water bottle and shoes attached to your harness, put a warm hat, phone, tape and food in your shoes which are attached to your harness.

  Have fun!

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• 19 Guffey // Apr 8, 2009 at 10:24 am

  What approach shoe would you recommend?

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  April 13th, 2009 at 3:55 pm

  La Sportiva Exum Ridge.

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• 20 Brian Fitzgerald // Apr 14, 2009 at 10:09 am

  Stephen – over the years I have heard about your conquests and adventures and I even stumbled across an article about you in a magazine (Outdoor?). I was most impressed with a training video of you online showing the techniques you (and your trainer) employ to get you mountain ready. I just wanted to drop you a note saying I’m proud to know someone like you (coming from Medway counts) that has taken on the world’s challenges head on. Good for you on harnessing your accomplishments and stories in a way to motivate others. Keep living a good life. I’ll look you up if I’m ever in Wyoming and you can share your climbing passion with me. All the best, Brian Fitz.

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  April 14th, 2009 at 10:46 am

  Thanks Brian! I was just in Medway and gave a presentation at the Medway VFW. Sorry to miss you and will let you know when I am next there.
  Cheers,
  sk

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• 21 a // Apr 23, 2009 at 7:14 am

  Beautiful climbing. Thanks for sharing.

  I’m reading Teewinot by Jack Turner. He writes about bailing from what later became know ans the Lowe Route (Buttress) between the Enclosure and Black Ice Couloirs. I can’t seem to find much about it? Do you know if it’s been repeated?

  Cheers!

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  Stephen Koch Reply:
  April 23rd, 2009 at 8:17 am

  The best resource for climbing information is “a Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range” by Renny Jackson and Leigh Ortenburger. The information you seek is on page 208…the Lowe Route. There is also Lookin’ for Trouble by Jim Beyer. This route may be the most difficult in the Tetons and was done solo July 4-5, 1991. Very impressive looking buttress it goes up between the Black Ice Couloir and Enclosure Ice Couloir.

  The Lowe route has been repeated. I don’t know if Lookin for Trouble has had a repeat. You can also call the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers and ask them, or better yet, stop in there before you head up for your climb. They can be reached at 307.739.3399 and they have a blog at http://www.tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/

  Get the book and get after it!

  Cheers,

  Stephen

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• 22 a // Apr 23, 2009 at 12:17 pm

  LOL… I’m just interested in the history. I’m an old 5.7 gumby and won’t be sending Lowe Route anytime soon. But yeah, it blows me away and I can always admire your TR’s ;-}

  Thanks for the book beta.
  Cheers,
  a

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